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Kaitlyn Kramer | A History and Mysteries Blog and Podcast Est. 2024
Fred Smith's Concrete Park in Philips, Wi
Fred Smith’s Wisconsin Concrete Park is a hidden gem in Phillips, WI. Nestled in Wisconsin’s Northwoods, Phillips is a charming city and the county seat of Price County. Located along Highway 13 and north of Highway 8, this unique attraction is a must-see.
If you’ve never been to the Concrete Park or even heard of it, you’re in for a treat, and I’m thrilled to tell you all about it. I vividly remember the first time I stumbled upon it. My friend and I were driving along when suddenly, we saw this park filled with large human and animal sculptures on the side of the road. I couldn’t believe my eyes and shouted to my friend, "Did you see that?!" Without hesitation, I turned the car around, eager to investigate what we had just discovered.
But let’s start with the man behind these cool yet somewhat spooky statues: Fred Smith.
Who was Fred Smith?
Born on September 20, 1886, to German immigrant parents in Ogema, Wisconsin, about 20 miles south of Phillips, Fred had an extraordinary life. Despite having no formal schooling and being unable to read or write, Fred was an avid musician who loved to entertain with his fiddle and mandolin. Music played a vital role in his life, from childhood into old age. Remarkably, he made his first fiddle at the age of twelve using a cigar box and horsehair. Fred was known for breaking out his instruments in his tavern, where he would play and entertain both locals and visitors. His music was a cherished part of the community, and his legacy lives on through a record of his songs, which is preserved at the museum. You can even listen to these tracks on the Wisconsin Concrete Park website, offering a glimpse into the vibrant musical life of Fred Smith.
Later in life, when asked if his illiteracy had ever hindered him, Fred confidently replied, "Hell no, I can do things other people can’t do!"
Smith began working in lumber camps near Spirit, Wisconsin, in his early teens. For just 99 cents per day, he would rise at the crack of dawn and labor until darkness fell, enduring the frigid Wisconsin winters. He worked with large horses and massive, hand-operated logging tools to cut and transport giant pines.
Reflecting on those times, he said, "I made just that little bit of money and lived 5 kids and a woman on that money. Never made no debts, never! That goes to show what people can do!"
The land that now hosts the Wisconsin Concrete Park was part of the massive lumber clear-out during the late 1800s, leaving it completely barren. In 1903, at just 17 years old, Fred Smith purchased 120 acres of this land. Here, he built his homestead with his wife, Alta. Though details about their meeting and marriage remain elusive, Fred and Alta spent their entire married life on this land, raising their five children.
On his homestead, Fred grew ginseng, which he sold to marketers in New York, and raised Christmas trees that he sold locally during the holidays.
The original Smith house burned down in 1922, and it was replaced with a sturdy, Craftsman-style house that may have been ordered from Sears and Roebuck. If you didn't know, mail-order homes could be purchased through catalogs from as early as 1906 to as late as 1982. Buyers would receive both the architectural plans and all the materials needed to build the home.
How did it work? You would mail in your order, and Sears would collect all the pieces and ship them via train car to your location. Imagine receiving everything you needed to construct a home—lumber, nails, shingles, doors, and windows—delivered to your property. You'd then follow the plans and assemble your house from the ground up. It was an innovative and affordable way for many Americans to achieve the dream of homeownership, and the Smiths were among those who took advantage of this opportunity to rebuild their lives after the fire.
Out of curiosity, I looked up what a Sears catalog Craftsman home would have cost in the 1920s when the Smiths would have rebuilt their home. Back then, the starting price for a house from Sears, Roebuck & Company was only $659. That's the equivalent of $16,164.74 today.
Keep in mind, this price covered just the materials needed to build the house—you'd still have to assemble it yourself. Can you imagine paying only $659 for all the building materials for your home? What a wild thought! Today, that kind of money might not even cover a few months of rent, let alone an entire house worth of construction materials. It really puts into perspective how much times have changed.
In their new home, Smith transformed the south-facing sun porch into a lush Rock Garden Room for Alta. This serene space featured a long brick trough filled with a carefully curated rock garden, complete with a tranquil fountain and an array of living plants surrounded by collected stones accumulated over the years.
Remarkably, this unique feature is still intact today. When you visit the old home, now repurposed as a gift shop, you can view this original creation firsthand on the porch.
Right outside the porch, Fred created his own elaborate Rock Garden, which would later evolve into the renowned Rock Garden Tavern. Originally built in 1936, the tavern was a testament to Smith's artistic vision, featuring his unique sculptures integrated into its structural elements. Assisting him were the skilled Raskie brothers, known for their craftsmanship in using fieldstone and distinctive tinted, rope-style mortar joints in building impressive stone structures throughout the area. Alongside Fred, they collaborated on the tavern's construction, with Fred innovatively crafting homemade concrete blocks for an addition to the tavern.
Reflecting on those days, Fred fondly recalled, "I just had Rhinelander beer. Only one beer! I bought a truckload of beer every time we went to Rhinelander. 200 cases every time."
Around 1948, Fred Smith decided to retire from his work in the lumber camps, a decision often attributed to severe arthritis. However, retirement didn't mark an end to his days of intense labor; instead, it sparked a new phase of creativity. Over the next 15 years, Smith embarked on an ambitious project, transforming the land around his home and the surroundings of his tavern into his personal studio.
Smith's artistic endeavors were undoubtedly influenced by the larger-than-life scale of lumber work, famously depicted in the Paul Bunyan tall tales. His sculptures and installations around the Wisconsin Concrete Park reflect this grandeur, showcasing his unique vision and dedication to his craft.
He didn’t set out with a grand plan to create 237 life-size and larger-than-life sculptures over fifteen working seasons. The project spanned 15 years, but the outdoor working conditions limited his ability to sculpt to a few short months each year. Like many artists, Fred Smith's work evolved from a deep love of craftsmanship and creativity. He crafted sculptures that honored Native American Indians, regional settlers, local myths, legends, figures, animals, and events of both national and personal significance.
In his own words, Smith once remarked, "Nobody knows why I made them, not even me. This work just came to me naturally. I started one day in 1948 and have been making a few sculptures a year ever since." He would eventually call this roadside attraction the Wisconsin Concrete Park.
Taking on this monumental project demanded immense time and effort from Smith. As he immersed himself deeper into his artistic endeavors, he began to withdraw from his family, focusing intensely on his sculptures. This familiar struggle between artistic dedication and domestic responsibilities echoed in Smith's life, a conflict shared by many artists.
Despite facing criticism and misunderstanding from those around him, Smith remained steadfast in his commitment to his art. He recognized its profound importance and continued to pour his creativity into the Wisconsin Concrete Park, steadfast in his vision of creating something extraordinary.
He took great delight in sharing his sculptures with visitors and cherished their interest in his work. Despite receiving admiration from some locals, many viewed Smith with skepticism, considering his park an eyesore that they hoped would disappear. Yet, Smith remained steadfast in his belief in the importance of his art.
He believed it was essential for people to view his work, but to view it exactly where it was. In 1974, the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis approached Smith to feature his works in their Naives and Visionaries exhibition, the first of its kind to highlight self-taught environment builders. However, Smith declined the offer. He insisted that his art already was in a museum, it was a museum. Out of all the sculptures he created, Fred Smith made only one exception: a deer sculpture that he crafted for a friend. He steadfastly refused to sell any of his artworks or accept commissions.
"I welcome visitors," he once remarked. "I enjoy watching their reactions. But I never sell anything because it might spoil the experience for others."
In 1964, shortly after completing the last horse in his Budweiser Display, which we will circle back to, Fred Smith suffered a stroke. He was subsequently moved to a nursing home in Phillips, not far from the Wisconsin Concrete Park.
For the remaining eleven years of his life, Smith resided in the nursing home, where he continued to dream of sculptures he could no longer physically create. He passed away on February 21, 1976, and was laid to rest beside his wife Alta in Lakeside Cemetery in Phillips. Even today, friends and admirers visit his grave, leaving tokens of admiration and respect.
The creation of the Concrete Park
By the time Fred retired from his life as a lumberjack in 1948, he had accumulated 62 years of life experience and a reservoir of thoughts and ideas ready to be brought to life. His fascination with rock gardens initially manifested in the Rock Garden Room within his house, expanded into the outdoor Rock Garden as mentioned earlier, and culminated in the creation of the Rock Garden Tavern.
Around the parking area, Fred painted signs and dancing girls on boulders, and he even transformed a large, flat rock into a concrete sculpture resembling a seated Native American woman wrapped in a blanket. This marked the beginning of Fred Smith's artistic journey at the Wisconsin Concrete Park, where he unleashed his intuition.
According to legend, Smith built a grand stone barbecue adorned with concrete portraits of Native Americans to commemorate the baseball teams, the Indians and the Braves, who played in the Pennant—the precursor to the World Series—that year. He then created two double-sided deer plaques in the area where his rock garden once stood, situated between the Smith house and the Tavern.
These sculptures were initially built lying flat on the ground and later raised upright using a truck and a few helping hands. Smith's friend and neighbor, Leonard Lowe, who ran a salvage business, assisted in assembling and standing many of the sculptures. Lowe also sourced various “horse parts,” harnesses, carriage components, and other objects for Smith's creations.
Smith's primary material was concrete, which he adorned in various creative ways. His early works featured painted scenes and low-relief glass embellishments. As his art evolved, he decorated surfaces with glass, auto reflectors, mirrors, and other objects. He even recycled glass bottles from the tavern to add unique touches to his sculptures. Smith worked quickly and efficiently, understanding the nuances of his materials and learning to build sculptures from the ground up. Around the tavern, he created grand, two-sided sculptures of the Statue of Liberty and the Statue of Freedom on the Capitol Dome, showcasing his artistic vision and ingenuity.
He once described his process of making one of the sculptures:
First I make a footing about one-foot deep and pour concrete in it. The figures are started with a couple of strips of lumber which I wrap with mink or barbed wire. The arms and hands are made separately. After the form is made I begin filling it in with cement. I do half of it lying down, and then I raise it on the footing and do the remainder after it is standing up. Then the head, arms, and hands are erected to the form. It is then dressed with colored glass and other bits of things.
The Wisconsin Concrete Park boasts over 200 statues, so I won't cover them all here. To fully appreciate the breadth of Fred Smith's work, you should visit the park yourself or explore the extensive gallery on their website.
Smith sculpted a vast array of subjects, paying homage to various figures and events. He honored Chinese statesman Sun Yat-sen, Sacajawea—the Native American guide on the Lewis and Clark expedition—and created a monument to the Marines raising the flag at Iwo Jima. His skills grew as he built two-dimensional works around the Tavern. North of the Smith House, his inspirations shifted toward recording local history, legends, and ways of life, adding a rich historical dimension to his creative endeavors.
Smith populated the park with an impressive array of ninety-nine animal sculptures. These include wild creatures like moose, elk, deer, panthers, skunks, and bears; domestic animals such as horses, oxen, cows, and hounds; and birds like eagles, ducks, and owls. He even crafted exotic animals, including a lion, tiger, and Angora cat.
The tiger statue is quite unique, and its inspiration came from a copy of They Taught Themselves by Sidney Janis. The book featured illustrations of paintings by Morris Hirshfield, a Brooklyn artist, including Angora Cat, Lion, and Tiger. Fred received this book from Chicago artist Robert Amft, who discovered the park while on a Northwoods fishing trip in the 1950s. Amft and Fred became friends, with Amft extensively photographing the park over the years. During one of his visits, Amft brought Smith a copy of the book. Months later, Amft returned to the site, and Smith proudly showed him his newly created sculptures, saying something like, "See, I can do just as good as that guy."
Smith also represented the first people to occupy the region, the Ojibwe, or Anishinaabe. One notable piece, the Indian and Woman tableau, depicts the ratification of a treaty with a local tribe, which Smith may have recalled from childhood. The scene shows a handshake between a Native American and a white woman, sealing the pact. The Native American figure, adorned with a stunning headdress and a clam-shell-encrusted garment, towers over the female figure, standing nearly twice her size. Smith used this difference in scale to emphasize the stature of the figures involved, or perhaps to symbolize the respect and admiration he held for Native Americans. Or rather that Natives where people to ‘look up to’, hence the statue looming over the white woman.
Smith had a deep fondness for Native American people and was deeply affected by the harsh treatment and efforts to drive them from their lands during the early 1900s. His strong feelings about the tension and inequality between whites and Native Americans were evident during an interview with Stephen Beal and Jim Zanzi in 1975. "I hear so much about Indians it makes me pretty near cry," he said, actually shedding tears. "Not far from here they want to run the Indians off. Indians don’t hurt nobody. They got the right anyway. They was the first people here, and they want to run them out now. Makes me crazy when I think of that kind of world. If there was no law, I believe they would shoot all the Indians down."
In the all-male lumber camps where Smith worked in his younger years, relating Paul Bunyan stories was a high-performance art. Reality and legend often blended together in these tales. Inspired by these stories, Smith depicted three local lumberjacks—Mr. Knox, Barry Swanson, and Gust Johnson—as colleagues of Paul Bunyan.
When Smith decided to build a statue of Paul Bunyan, the idea sparked a wager at the Rock Garden Tavern. Someone bet that Smith couldn’t make a statue of Paul Bunyan standing on a marble. Game on! Smith took the challenge and created a 16-foot tall statue of Bunyan, who bears a strong resemblance to Teddy Roosevelt, complete with wire-rim glasses and a rifle. And yes, Bunyan stands triumphantly on a large hemisphere—a marble.
Smith also created sculptures that depicted daily life, capturing people in everyday moments: sweethearts sitting on a rock, two couples in their Double Wedding carriage, a bandstand of musicians, a photographer, "Chiann" (Cheyanne) the cowboy beer drinker, and a sour-faced couple in a sleigh.
One of my personal favorites is Muskie Pulled by Horses, inspired by tavern talk. Claiming he had caught the biggest Muskie, Smith said his catch was so large it had to be pulled out of Soo Lake by a team of horses. As you know, fishermen never lie, so this must be a to-scale monument of the fish.
Finally, returning to The Budweiser Clydesdale Team, featuring eight draft horses and two ponies, originally included two figures and a dog seated on the wagon. While the figures are no longer intact, the dog now sits proudly at the head of the team. Smith positioned the Budweiser Clydesdale Team directly south of his Rock Garden Tavern. Shortly after completing the last horse in this iconic display, Smith suffered a stroke, marking the end of an era. This monument would be his final project.
Approaching from the south on Highway 13, spectators had reason to gasp and pull over. The Budweiser Clydesdale Team signaled something extraordinary in the northwoods – and it wasn’t just beer.
Then what happened: The Wisconsin Concrete Park, 1976 – 1987
Fortunately, Fred Smith’s Wisconsin Concrete Park outlived its creator. In 1976, the site, excluding the tavern and its immediate surroundings, was acquired by the Kohler Foundation, Inc. of Kohler, WI. A restoration project commenced in the spring of 1977.
Since the tavern was not part of the Kohler Foundation's acquisition, all but one sculpture on the tavern property were relocated and reinstalled in the present east meadow. The owner of the Rock Garden Tavern insisted that the Iwo Jima monument remain. Artists Don Howlett and Sharron Quasius were enlisted to relocate and repair sculptures, and prepare the site to become a Price County Park.
Don and Sharron were well into the project when a devastating cyclonic downburst struck Price County, wreaking havoc on the park. Numerous mature trees, essential to the park's landscape, were toppled, necessitating extensive restoration efforts. The site had to be cleared of debris, with many sculptures requiring repairs and new concrete footings.
After months of dedicated restoration work, the project was completed in September 1978. Subsequently, Kohler Foundation, Inc., generously gifted the site to Price County as a county park and museum.
During the summer of 1987, a site conservation and maintenance project was underway at the park. On July 4th, exactly ten years after the initial windstorm, a second storm struck the area, causing further damage to the sculptures and landscape. Whether coincidence or curse, the park persevered.
Following the repair of storm damage, an annual maintenance program was established. Today, ongoing preservation efforts focus on maintaining the sculptures, house, and landscape as integral parts of the park's historical context, reflecting Fred Smith's artistic vision during his active years from 1948 to 1964.
Founded in 1995, the Friends of Fred Smith, Inc. is dedicated to supporting the Wisconsin Concrete Park in collaboration with Price County. Their mission, as stated on their website, is clear: to preserve all aspects of the Wisconsin Concrete Park, including its sculptures, landscape, and the historic Smith Family House. Their goal is not only preservation but also the ongoing development of the park as a public educational and cultural facility.
With a vision to enrich the community through cultural, historical, and artistic resources, the Friends of Fred Smith, Inc. aims to expand individual potential and foster unity among people. Today, the park continues to be maintained by a dedicated board of directors, which includes some of its founding members. Additionally, the park features buildings available for community events and private parties, further enhancing its role as a vibrant community asset.
After acquiring the former Stoney Pub, the Friends of Fred Smith made a crucial decision to purchase the property, aiming to preserve its historic significance and enhance community engagement with the park. Following extensive renovations and restorations, the tavern reopened its doors to the public in 2019. Visitors can now enjoy a selection of beverages including Rhinelander beer, a favorite of Fred Smith's, alongside hard sodas, mixed drinks, a diverse wine collection, and soft drinks. Operating hours are Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 3 to 9 p.m.
The upper level of the tavern has been transformed into a charming two-bedroom apartment available for rent on Airbnb. All proceeds generated from both the tavern and apartment rentals contribute directly to the ongoing preservation efforts of the park. This initiative ensures that Fred Smith's vision of an accessible, open-air art museum remains alive and thriving for future generations to experience and enjoy.
Haunted park?
The Wisconsin Concrete Park welcomes visitors year-round, offering unrestricted access 24/7. During the summer months, complimentary tours are available every Friday at 2 pm, providing an informative glimpse into the park's rich history and artistic legacy.
Exploring during daylight reveals picturesque trails like the Budweiser Trail, which I personally hiked. This easy loop trail winds around the park's scenic backdrops, inviting peaceful strolls amidst nature's beauty.
However, visiting after sunset introduces a different atmosphere. Locals and visitors have long considered the park haunted, a notion even chronicled in Chad Lewis and Terry Fisk's book, "The Wisconsin Road Guide to Haunted Places," despite some inaccuracies in its historical accounts. Reports of statues seemingly moving on their own and sightings of ghostly figures add to the park's eerie reputation. Mysterious noises and strange occurrences have been part of local lore since the 1970s, often attributed to the restless spirit of Fred Smith himself or other unexplained entities.
During my visit in broad daylight, I didn't encounter anything supernatural. Yet, the park's unique ambiance and the lifelike sculptures can evoke an uncanny feeling, as if being observed. Whether the park is truly haunted remains open to personal interpretation, but its distinctive charm and artistic allure are undeniable, making it a must-visit destination for curious adventurers.
Whether you come to marvel at the artistry, immerse yourself in local history, or simply enjoy a peaceful hike along the Budweiser Trail, the Wisconsin Concrete Park invites you to form your own impressions. It's a place where the ordinary transforms into the extraordinary, offering a unique glimpse into the creative spirit and enduring legacy of Fred Smith.
So, the next time you're in the area, pause for a moment of discovery at this captivating and unconventional destination. Whether you seek artistic inspiration, a touch of local folklore, or simply a memorable adventure, the Wisconsin Concrete Park promises an experience that's as enriching as it is unforgettable.
Sources:
**All photos sourced from the Wisconsin concrete park Website**
Wisconsin concrete park website:
https://wisconsinconcretepark.org/
Rock Garden Tavern opens at Concrete Park
- By Anna Maria Hansen ahansen@pricecountyreview.com Sep 12, 2019
John Michael Kohler Arts Center
https://www.jmkac.org/artist/smith-fred/
'The Wisconsin Road Guide to Haunted Locations' By Chad Lewis and Terry Fisk
Welcome to "History in the Pines," the blog AND podcast dedicated to uncovering the rich history and intriguing lore of the Northwoods. Join me, Kat, your host and blogger, as I explore some of my favorite places, delving into their colorful pasts and the stories of those who came before us and learning about new stories and tales to share with you along the way.
Everyone knows Paul Bunyan, but have you heard of Na-na-boozoo, the legendary Ojibwa hero? Or the mystery of Clawson Hill and its significance to the town of Minocqua? I'll share these tales of lost lore and history alongside many others, like what on earth is the fearsome Hodag of Rhinelander, forgotten towns that are now nothing but ruins and old foundations over grown in the woods, the origins of popular vacation spots all over the northern half of the state, gangster shootouts, and perhaps even a few ghost stories.
In addition to these fascinating tales, we'll be interviewing Up North residents and business owners about a variety of subjects. Discover local hot spots, where to find the best fish fry, the coolest places to rent and stay around the area, and hear personal anecdotes and much more.
New episodes of our podcast and new blog posts will drop every Monday. You can listen wherever you listen to your podcasts or read along, right here, with our blog posts . This blog will be in tandem with our podcast episodes. Each blog post will elaborate a little bit more on each subject, as well have visuals of items, people, places that we will talk about on our episodes.
Be sure to follow @Historyinthepinespod on Instagram and join our community. We will have all sort of engaging posts, discussions and so much more.
I'm excited to reminisce, discover new stories with you and uncover lost history! Tune in and let’s explore the histories and mysteries of the Northwoods together.
-Kat
This week’s topic was an absolute delight for me. I am a HUGE fan of old and historical homes and mansions. So much so In fact, when my husband and I got married, we honeymooned in Duluth at the historic Cotton Mansion, where I got to live out my Downton Abbey dreams. Today, we’re heading just five minutes from Duluth to Superior, WI, to explore the infamous Fairlawn Mansion.First, let's delve into the story of the remarkable individual who envisioned and constructed this astounding mansion. The Man Behind the Mansion. Martin Pattinson was born Simeon Martin Thayer on January 17, 1841, in southern Ontario to Simeon Martin Thayer Sr. and Emmarilla Pattison. Around the age of 11, his family moved from Canada to Sanilac County, Michigan. After spending about 10 years working in a logging camp and partnering in the lumber business near Minden, MI, with a man named Joseph Murdock, Martin married Murdock’s sister, Isabelle Murdock, on August 7, 1869. The couple welcomed their first child five months later. In 1871, two years after his marriage, Martin was elected to the Michigan State Legislature. However, the following year took a strange and somewhat scandalous turn. On April 30, 1872, Simeon Martin Thayer went to Port Huron on business and mysteriously disappeared, leaving behind his wife, Isabella, and their two children. Coincidentally, around the same time, 18-year-old Martha Murdock, Isabella’s sister, also disappeared from Minden, MI, along with cash from the Thayer-Murdock lumber business. According to the story, Simeon Martin Thayer assumed his mother’s maiden name, becoming Martin Pattison, and moved to Marquette with Martha. Although no marriage record exists for Martin and Martha, they lived together as husband and wife until Martha's death in 1877. Two years later, in 1879, at the age of 38, Martin met and married 23-year-old Grace E. Frink in Marquette, Michigan, making her Grace Pattison. However, Martin never divorced his first wife, Isabella, and was still legally married to her. Making Grace, unknowingly a bigamist. The laws regarding multiple marriages in the 1800s are unclear, but it's possible he was able to marry Grace under his new identity because records were not as easily accessible as they are today and no one even knew he was married. Changing one's identity was obviously much simpler without the power of the internet and social media. The same year that Martin and Grace married, they relocated to Superior, WI, where they would eventually build the magnificent Fairlawn Mansion. Martin wasted no time establishing a logging business along the Black River, capitalizing on his extensive experience in the lumber industry. After selling his lumber interests, Martin turned his attention to the rich mineral potential of the region. He began exploring for iron ore on the Vermilion Range, and his efforts paid off handsomely. Martin successfully located the famous Chandler and Pioneer mines in Ely, MN, about two hours north of Superior. These discoveries cemented his reputation as a skilled and resourceful entrepreneur, further contributing to his legacy in the region. Although Martin had moved and changed his name, his former brother-in-law and business partner, John Murdock, eventually tracked him down. Murdock blackmailed Martin, demanding money for his sister Isabelle and the two children Martin had abandoned. In exchange, Murdock promised to keep Martin’s double life a secret. When Martin later became wealthy and famous, Murdock demanded more—this time, a legal divorce for Isabella and a financial settlement. In June 1890, Martin agreed, and the divorce was granted. This legal proceeding became the key to a reporter uncovering and breaking the story of Martin Pattison’s double life later that year. Interestingly, despite the scandalous revelation, the publicity did little to tarnish Pattison’s reputation. He continued to be a prominent and respected figure in the community. But the same could not be said for his personal relationships. Rumor has it that Grace, who had no knowledge of the family he had abandoned, was furious and heartbroken and from then on the two slept in separate rooms. By this time, Martin had become a pillar of the community. He had served as Superior’s sheriff from 1885 to 1886 and held the office of mayor three times. Alongside his civic duties, Martin achieved wealth and recognition through successful ventures in logging and mining. He was also deeply involved in numerous civic organizations, including the Elks Lodge, The Odd Fellows, and the Masons. Grace was equally influential in Superior, actively participating in civic organizations and charity groups, contributing significantly to the community alongside Martin's endeavors. Martin and Grace Pattinson raised a family of eight children 7 girls and 1 boy: Martha, Alice, Ethel, Byron, Vyrna, Leda, Myrna, and Lois. Grace gave birth to two sets of twin girls, Myrna and Vyrna, and Leda and Lois. Tragically, Vyrna and Leda passed away in infancy, leaving six children who grew up in the Fairlawn Mansion. The Pattinson family resided in the mansion until 1918, when Martin Pattinson passed away on December 20th in his bedroom at the age of 77 due to complications from diabetes. Grace, then 62 years old, and her youngest daughter, Lois, continued to live in the mansion until 1920. Seeking relief for Lois's rheumatoid arthritis, they relocated to Los Angeles. Grace, a woman of substantial wealth, commissioned the construction of a Tudor-style mansion known as "Windsor" on 37 acres of land. This elegant estate, not to be confused with the Winchester Mansion, served as Grace's residence until her death in 1934. After Grace's passing, Lois, her husband, and their son continued to reside at Windsor. Before leaving Superior, Grace performed one final act of unequaled generosity: she donated the beloved Fairlawn mansion to the Superior Children’s Home and Refuge Society, a charitable organization of which she was a founder and board member. On October 13, 1920, Fairlawn Mansion opened its doors as a Children’s Home, providing shelter for orphaned or abandoned children and pregnant women. Over its operational years, the mansion housed and cared for between 40 to 50 children at a time, ultimately supporting over 2,000 children until its closure in 1962. Notably, in 1926, baseball legend Babe Ruth visited the home, bringing joy to its young residents. The closure of the Children’s Home in 1962 was attributed to financial challenges and evolving societal norms regarding child care. Following its closure, Fairlawn Mansion faced an uncertain future. Grace Pattinson's will stipulated that if the mansion ceased to function as a children’s home, it should be demolished. However, in 1963, the City of Superior acquired Fairlawn for $12,500, aided by legal maneuvering and support from descendants of the Pattinson family. After its purchase, Fairlawn remained vacant for several years, undergoing gradual repairs until a comprehensive restoration project began in the 1990s. Today, Fairlawn Mansion stands as a testament to history, with its first and second floors meticulously restored to reflect the era when the Pattinson family resided there. Meanwhile, the third floor retains its original appearance from its time as a children’s home. Today, the mansion serves as both a museum dedicated to honoring the legacy of the Pattinson family and a headquarters for the superior museum society, preserving the rich heritage of both its former inhabitants and its role as a refuge for children in need. The Mansion Behind the Man Martin Pattison's mansion blends elements of both Queen Anne Victorian style and French Château-esque architecture. Despite the absence of discovered blueprints and city documents lacking an architect's name, there is speculation that the house was possibly designed by John DeWaard, a prominent architect active in Superior and Duluth during the 1890s. DeWaard's craftsmanship is evident in the ornate woodwork found throughout the interior, suggesting he may have been responsible for the mansion's overall design. Construction of the mansion commenced in 1888, with the family finally moving in by 1890, though the mansion's completion awaited until 1891. The total cost of the build was reported as $150,000, which today would equate to approximately $3.7 million. However, Grace Pattison herself indicated that the actual cost, including furnishings and mechanical equipment, was closer to $250,000, amounting to around $6.5 million in today's currency. Situated near the Duluth portage with commanding views overlooking Lake Superior and what is now Bakers Island (although not in existence at the time of construction), the mansion acquired the name Fairlawn by 1895, a moniker whose origin remains shrouded in mystery. The mansion encompasses four floors, including a basement, with a grand total of 42 rooms, offering over 15,000 square feet of opulent living space. Each room was meticulously designed with no expense spared, boasting ornate decorations and exquisite craftsmanship. Of particular note is the majestic corner tower crowned by an octagonal belvedere. Inside, the interior features woodwork crafted from quartersawn oak, cherry, bird’s-eye maple, and Guatemalan mahogany, showcasing the finest materials of its time. Leaded glass doors and art glass windows illuminate the rooms, while gilded swags, fluted pilasters, and elaborate fireplaces made of Egyptian marble and Mexican onyx, adorned with silver and brass trimmings, add to the mansion's lavish allure. To truly experience the beauty of this home, tours are available year-round. Additionally, there's a concise filmed tour on YouTube by Superior Public Museums, which I'll link in the show notes. But, let me share a few fascinating details about the home with you. When Grace and her daughter Lois relocated to California after Martin's passing, they took most of their furnishings with them. Over the years, however, many original family pieces have been generously donated back to the home. Some items are replicas or closely resemble the originals that once belonged to the family. Among the original pieces in the home is a marble statue of Pandora, prominently displayed in the turret of Grace's former parlor. This statue was acquired in Rome during one of the Pattinson family's trips to Europe. Another cherished item is an antique grandfather clock, purchased by Martin at the World's Fair in Chicago, now gracing the landing to the second floor. Additionally, the dining room chairs bear intricate needlepoint scenes on their backs, skillfully crafted by Grace herself. These are just a few highlights among the many original items that enrich the mansion's historical ambiance. The grand entrance of the home, embellished with expansive French glass doors, opened into a lengthy hallway flanked by rooms on either side. During its time, hallways were often seen as mere passages, but Fairlawn's first-floor corridor defied convention with its impressive length and width. Notably, it also features the main landing of an elegant oak staircase that ascends to the second floor. This spacious landing, akin to a room in its own right, is further enhanced by a fireplace, adding to the mansion's luxurious charm. The remainder of the main floor includes a reception room, parlor, music room, formal dining room, butler’s pantry, kitchen, and Pattison’s library and office. In the Library/Martin's Office, the bookcase proudly displays Martin's original book collections, adorned with gold-carved letters CFB, symbolizing Charity, Fellowship, and Brotherhood, integral to the Odd Fellows creed. Above the fireplace, the inscription "East or West, home is best," attributed to the Scottish poet Robert Barnes, is elegantly carved into the wood. Adjacent to this, an original stained glass window features a lamp atop a stack of books, symbolizing knowledge, with the words 'Fiat Luxe' inscribed above, meaning "Let there be light." Music rooms were common in Victorian homes during this era, serving as hubs for familial and social music-making. Reflecting the importance of music in their lives, the Pattison family designed their music room with meticulous attention to acoustics: the ceiling was rounded to enhance sound amplification and improve acoustics. Notably, even the window behind the piano is crafted from curved glass, enhancing the room's aesthetic and acoustic qualities. The music room transitions into a small area known as the conservatory, although this space is not original to the mansion. Initially, it served as the passageway to a large steel and glass greenhouse that Martin Pattison stocked with thousands of dollars' worth of exotic plants, fruits, and vegetables. Sadly, the greenhouse was demolished in 1930 during the children's home era. The current conservatory, constructed after its removal, later served as a dentist's office during that period. That wasn't the only thing removed during the children's home era. Interestingly enough all the fireplaces on the second floor, all but 2, were removed and stored in the basement, as they were deemed unsafe for children. Understandably. As well as the coach house which the gift shop stands today. Other amenities included in the original construction of Fairlawn Mansion were ahead of their time. These features showcased Martin Pattison's forward-thinking approach to comfort and convenience. Alongside indoor plumbing with hot-and-cold running water, the mansion boasted chandeliers equipped with both electricity and gas for reliability during power outages (as electricity was still fairly new at this time), a total of nine gas fireplaces complemented by two wood-burning ones, steam heating, an electric dumbwaiter, a central vacuum system, and an air shaft that circulated air throughout the entire house via a fan. Pattison even installed skylights in the attic roof to enhance natural lighting. Beyond these innovations, the basement housed a bowling alley and plunge pool, while the third floor accommodated a billiard room and ballroom. Each of these features contributed to making Fairlawn Mansion not only a luxurious residence but also a marvel of architectural ingenuity for its time. There's much more to discover within the walls of this historic home, that you will have to see for yourself. Are there still residents “Living” in the house? Rumors and tales circulate about Fairlawn Mansion, with many suggesting it is home to numerous spirits. Megan Meyer, the Executive Director of Superior Public Museums, reflects, "I firmly believe there’s an energy to this building. How could it not hold echoes of its storied past, having experienced so much over the years? I think people have left their mark on this place, and that’s what we feel, hear, and experience here." For many, including the museum's staff, the presence of these spirits is more than just a feeling—it's a tangible part of the mansion's ongoing legacy. “Most popular thing that people talk about it smelling cigar smoke. An old home does give off a lot of different smells throughout the time, throughout the years, the seasons what not, but cigar smoke it kind of the one that tends to stick around. Personally, I’ve heard footsteps, previous staff have had the same experience,” Meyer explained. There have also been reports of lingering perfume in the air, along with sightings of a ghost believed to be that of a servant girl. According to local lore, this servant worked at fairlawn and lived with her husband. Tragically, she was allegedly murdered by her husband, and it is said that her spirit returns to Fairlawn because it was where she felt most comfortable in life. Visitors have reported encounters where she acts like an employee, helping patrons by directing them to facilities and assisting lost children in finding their parents. The Pattisons were known for their exceptional treatment of staff, reflecting their generosity and community spirit, which may have contributed to the servant girl's attachment to Fairlawn Mansion even in death. While there are no confirmed reports of children dying in the home during its time as a children's home, as those records are sealed, speculation persists. One enduring rumor suggests that a little girl tragically drowned in the pool. Contrary to this tale, the pool was actually drained long before the home became a children's facility and remains intact today, repurposed as a storage room. Visitors have reported hearing the giggles and laughter of small children echoing throughout the mansion. Megan Meyer firmly asserts her belief in the presence of spirits within the home, but reassures that they are benign. According to her, there have been no reports of anything sinister or frightening occurring within the mansion's walls. However, if you're skeptical, you can join their flashlight tours where the lights are dimmed, and guides share stories about the resident ghosts and Victorian lore. It's an experience I'm definitely adding to my bucket list! In addition to the flashlight tours, as I mentioned earlier, they offer guided tours throughout the year to explore this magnificent home. While you're in the area, don't miss Pattison State Park, which has preserved Big Manitou Falls for a century. Martin Pattison secretly purchased 660 acres along the Black River in 1917 to prevent the construction of a power dam that would have destroyed the falls. His donation of the land in 1918 ensured the preservation of the waterfall and its surrounding property. Martin expressed his deep connection to the falls, stating: "In being able to gift this site to the public, I have fulfilled one of my greatest ambitions. I have spent many years enjoying the surroundings of the falls, and it has become an integral part of my life." With his generous act, Martin Pattison ensured that the waterfall, which had been attracting people for centuries, would not be lost. Wisconsin dedicated its sixth state park on January 20, 1920, thanks to his donation of land. With such a rich history of its own, I'm strongly considering dedicating an entire post solely to exploring the park. But until that time. Go explore these rich places of history for yourself. Sources: YouTube- The Fairlawn Mansion Tour- Superior Public Museum-The Fairlawn Mansion Tour SAH Archipedia-FAIRLAWN MANSION, MARTIN AND GRACE PATTISON HOUSE-Marsha Weisiger https://sah-archipedia.org/buildings/WI-01-DG6 Northern News Now-Holding On To History: The legacy of Martin and Grace Pattison lives on-By Dave Anderson Published: Dec. 18, 2023 - https://www.northernnewsnow.com/2023/12/19/holding-history-legacy-martin-grace-pattison-lives/ Geni- Genealogy of Simeon Martin Thayer- Eric Orner- https://www.geni.com/people/Simeon-Pattison/6000000033147768881 Superior Public Museums- MARTIN PATTISON - THE GREAT LUMBER BARON- by Martha Sheibe-https://superiorpublicmuseums.org/january-2020/ 1889 VICTORIAN HOUSE RESTORATION- Fairlawn Mansion- From Zenithcity.com and written by Judith Liebaert Original link here: Superiors American Castle- http://1889victorianrestoration.blogspot.com/2016/03/fairlawn-mansion.html SSWDA- The Double Life of Martin Pattison (1841 to 1872; 1872 to 1918)- https://www.sswda.org/archive/the-double-life-of-martin-pattison-1841-to-1872-1872-to-1918/ Northern News Now- Historic mansion plays important role in Superior's history- By Izabella Zadra Published: Jul. 12, 2024- https://www.northernnewsnow.com/2024/07/12/historic-mansion-plays-important-role-superiors-history/ Fox 21 Local News- The Ghosts of Fairlawn Mansion in Superior-September 26, 2022 by Cam Derr- https://www.fox21online.com/2022/09/26/the-ghosts-of-fairlawn-mansion-in-superior/ Wisconsin Haunted Houses- Fairlawn Mansion and Museum - Superior WI Real Haunted Places- https://www.wisconsinhauntedhouses.com/real-haunt/fairlawn-mansion-museum.html Lost in the States- Fairlawn Mansion- Posted on August 22, 2023 by Mike Sonnenberg- https://lostinthestates.com/fairlawn-mansion/ Wisconsin Department of Natural Recourses- History Pattison State Park-https://dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/parks/pattison/history
Welcome to our very first blog post! I’m thrilled to have you here. This blog and podcast have become a true passion project for me, and I am so excited to share the rich history and captivating stories of the northern half of our beautiful state—tales you may not have heard before. Before we dive into our first topic, let me introduce myself so we can become more than just strangers; we can become friends. I’m Kaitlyn but go by, Kat. I’m an Up North local and the Marketing Manager at Lakeland Rental Management based in Woodruff. A little about them as they are the heart and reason for this project. Their company offers a diverse and large inventory of vacation rentals that capture the rustic nostalgia of the Northwoods. From historic resorts to timeless cabins, so many properties are steeped in rich history and charm. Many of their rentals have been beautifully restored or meticulously maintained, serving as time capsules that transport guests back to the early days, when tourism was just beginning in the north. Although these are a majority of the rentals, they also offer more modern accommodations for those that are not completely sold on ‘rustic charm’. Among their impressive inventory is a reestablished and renovated resort from the 1950s. This resort has been recently reopened and is now fully operational, they have 7 cabins of different sizes, private beach for swimming, large yard and common area playground, private docks. complete with an on-site restaurant—a rarity in today's lodging market. This unique feature adds an extra layer of convenience and charm, allowing guests to enjoy a truly immersive and authentic Northwoods experience. So while working on new marketing strategies to promote these places and familiarizing myself with their properties—sifting through pictures and descriptions—I couldn't help but think, "I bet some of these places have amazing stories and pasts." This realization sparked an idea: why not lean into the rich history and nostalgic charm of these locations? When people book a stay with them/us they should not expect white walls, modern farmhouse aethstetic. You’re getting rustic cabins, nostalgic feelings, old but very loved and up kept treasures of cabins. And there is a huge demographic of people that we can reach that want to have this experience and we needed to share what we had with people. So I proposed this concept to the owner, suggesting that we emphasize the old-school vacations reminiscent of the era when fishing camps dotted the landscape and tourism was just beginning in the area. She loved the idea, and we decided to run with it. A few months ago, we rebranded to become a company dedicated to preserving history and promoting nostalgic vacations in the Northwoods. Our goal is to offer more than just a place to stay; we aim to provide an experience that transports guests back in time, allowing them to relive the magic and charm of the past. By focusing on the history and stories behind each property, we aim to create a deeper connection between our guests and the Northwoods. Whether it's a cabin that has stood the test of time since the early 1900s or a resort from the 1950s that's been lovingly restored, every rental has a tale to tell. Even the newer homes. This rebranding effort has not only revitalized our marketing strategy but has also resonated deeply with our guests, who appreciate the unique blend of history, nostalgia, and modern comfort we offer. We are excited to continue this journey, uncovering and sharing the rich histories of our properties and the Northwoods, and providing our guests with unforgettable, nostalgic vacations that celebrate the past while creating new memories for the future. Growing up in this region, I've always been enchanted by the beauty and mystery of the Northwoods. From the towering pines to the serene lakes, this place holds a special kind of magic. But it's the hidden histories and local legends that truly fascinate me. I realized that many of these stories were at risk of being forgotten, and I felt a strong desire to preserve and share them with others. So in order for me to tie in learning history and sharing it with everyone AND doing my job (Just kidding, kind of) I had the idea of turning a blog and podcast into a marketing strategy of my own. Every week on Monday when I post a new blog and podcast episode, We will have ads during our episodes and ‘features’ on our blog of the different unique properties that Lakeland Rental has to offer. I will give you the latest discount codes that are happening in the moment to help you plan your own rustic up north vacation. ______________________________ On our logo, intro and our about you pages we always reference “the history or lore of the ‘northwoods’/ ‘up north’. When the podcast would be brought up with people out and about, when asked what i was up to, and they would naturally ask what it was about and I would give them my spiel as I just gave you above: “it’s about the history and lore of the north woods/up north”- without a doubt the resounding response I would get would of course be a “oh that’s really neat!” Followed by “what is considered ‘the northwoods’ or ‘up north’”? I know everyone has an opinion on where they think up north is so I started asking them where they thought it was And when I asked I got a variation of about 4 different answers. And realized maybe it meant something different to everyone. But who was right? For years, decades, even centuries, people have used the term "Up North" to describe their travels or origins. "I'm going up north this weekend." "I'm visiting the family up north." "I’m from up north." But where exactly is "Up North"? This term is inherently flexible and not exclusive to Wisconsin. It can refer to the northern region of any area. However, in Wisconsin, it carries a special, albeit debated, significance that sets it apart. People have varying interpretations of what constitutes "Up North" in Wisconsin. For instance, some folks from the south such as Illinois might consider Lake Geneva to be "up north"—an assertion that many Wisconsinites would dispute, this includes myself. Meanwhile, some Michiganders argue that the Upper Peninsula (UP) should be considered "up north." This viewpoint holds considerable weight, as the UP shares much of the same rugged, natural beauty and cultural elements that define Wisconsin's Northwoods. Not to mention is oftentimes confused by people not local to the area as Wisconsin because of its ‘closeness’ sitting right on top of our state. Being From Minocqua I consider that “up north” however I read an article where I sourced some of my information (this source is linked at the bottom) The Authour of the article, Chelsea Lewis, whose family had a cabin in Minocqua, also considered this ‘Up north’.However in her article she states that her brother-in-law who lived in superior, says that its not. Even though I highly disagree with the man, I will give him the benefit of the doubt as I’m sure I would agree if I was also from the northernmost part of the state. So where is the ’True Up North’ then? There are many different ways that one can define what ‘up north’ is There isn't an actual line between "up north" and the rest of the state. There’s no sign that will be on the side of a highway to welcome you or let you know “hey you're up north now”. According to the state cartographer's office, the center of the state is near Auburndale, which is a town along Highway 10. Pittsville, a town about 20 miles south, is the marked and commemorated center of the state — possibly a topic for another time. So geographically speaking, everything north of Stevens Point is up north. But if you were to evenly divide the state in half by land area, the line would be south of there, roughly below St. Croix, Dunn, Chippewa, Clark, Marathon, Shawano, Oconto and Door counties. Highways seem to be a popular ‘marker’. one of the ways people have defined what ‘up north’ is, is by the major highways that run east to west or west to east, through the upper half of the state. in an article Where does 'up north' begin? Wisconsinites can't agree by James B. Nelson of the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel Nelson asked their readers to vote based on these highways. Highway 8, which runs from St. Croix Falls east through Rhinelander to the border with Michigan’s Upper Peninsula just south of Iron Mountain, was the winner in that 2017 poll with 7,000 votes. Highway 2, which cuts a small corner through northwestern Wisconsin from Superior to Hurley, was second with 5,000 votes. Highway 10 was third with about 1,500 votes. There were a number of people who mentioned in this poll that they had left out highway 29 which stretches from Chippewa Falls through Wausau to Green Bay. Maybe He left this one out because it is pretty close to 10? but i'm just speculating! In that same 2017 poll though many commenters and even the author himself commented that up north is usually characterized by certain natural features — mainly the forests with evergreens and pines and lots of lakes. Northwoods + Up North= One in the Same When you think of “up north” the word northwoods is normally followed closely behind it. And that could be another way that “up north is defined. When do the northwoods start? A September 2003 article by Mark G. Rickenbach and Paul H. Gobster in the Journal of Forestry that looked at the parcelization of Wisconsin’s Northwoods, defined the area as the 22 northernmost counties in the state.That included Polk, Barron, Rusk, Taylor, Lincoln, Langlade, Shawano and Oconto counties, and everything north of those. so pretty much everything north of 8. But a 2014 forest ecosystem vulnerability assessment from the Northwoods Climate Change Response Framework Project defined the area differently. The assessment defined the Laurentian Mixed Forest Province, which is just a really fancy name for the Northwoods, or more specifically an area of mixed hardwood and conifer forest as the 41 counties above an s-shaped line through the state. This line is what is known as the Tension Line or zone. A tension zone is a transitional area between two distinct ecological regions, influenced by climatic factors and geological variations. According to Sarsuna College's online textbook, it is a zone of tension because it has conditions intermediate to the bordering ecosystems, potentially containing species that are entirely different from those in the adjacent zones. These ecotones can be natural or man-made; for example, the transition between an agricultural field and a forest is a man-made ecotone. In Wisconsin, the tension zone "line" stretches from Burnett County to Portage County, then east to Outagamie County, and south through the Kettle Moraine to Racine County. This line is primarily a result of climate variations, with wetter, cooler weather to the north and warmer, drier conditions to the south. These climatic differences encourage the growth of different species of plants and trees in each region, creating a diverse and dynamic ecological landscape along the tension zone. This creates two distinct regions within the state: the southwest, characterized by lightly wooded grasslands, prairies, and deciduous forests (forests of trees that shed their leaves for the winter); and the northeast, featuring a mixed deciduous-coniferous forest, according to the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources. This explanation sheds light on why some people, including myself (perhaps subconsciously, given that I named the podcast and blog "History in the Pines"), refer to "up north" when they start seeing more forests and pine trees. However, if the definition of "up north" were strictly based on the tension line, Sheboygan and Manitowoc counties would fall into that category. Yet, it's unlikely that many people would consider either of those areas as "up north." But then again, it’s all about perspective—whatever floats your boat. If you want in depth details click on links for the articles and give them a read yourself. But in short, the southern half of Wisconsin is comprised of plains, savannas, sandy areas, and two coastal landscapes: Southern Lake Michigan and Central Lake Michigan. These regions are generally situated south of the tension line and include coastal counties like Sheboygan and Manitowoc. The northern half of the tension line, which roughly follows Highway 29, features a diverse landscape. In the east, it is heavily forested; the central part is more agricultural; and the west boasts a mix of forests, agriculture, and lakes. Wetlands are also extensive in some areas. Historically, 86% of this landscape was forested, and today, 44% still is. This extensive forest cover is likely why the region is often referred to as the Northwoods. So, if our definition of "up north" is based on ecology—mainly higher concentrations of trees and lakes—the boundary would follow what roughly coincides with Highway 29. This aligns with the results of a Wisconsin poll that identified Highway 10 as the most popular marker for defining "up north" since it is so close in proximity. I have a very clear image in my mind. If you're a Minocqua vacationer or have driven north on Highway 51 in that direction you'll know what I am referring to. You'll reach a distinctive point where the freeway ends, and the traffic transitions to a double lane. The last exit before this transition leads to Highway 8, which heads towards Rhinelander or Tomahawk. From this moment onward, the landscape shifts dramatically—no more farmland dominates the scenery; instead, dense forests stretch as far as the eye can see and never seem to end. Every time I reach this point, I find myself thinking, "Well, I'm almost up north," or I feel a sense of home as if I'm entering the Northwoods or perhaps crossing that tension line. It's a moment of transition where the surroundings change from the cultivated fields of the south to the wild and wooded landscapes that define the Northwoods. Just because it’s in the name, does it make it true? Beyond ecological and geographic definitions of "up north," there are places that proudly claim this designation based on historical significance and cultural identity. One such place is Portage, located in the Central Sand Hills Landscape of Columbia County. This area presents a stark contrast to the densely wooded landscapes typically associated with the Northwoods. Portage welcomes visitors with a sign declaring, “Historic Portage — Where the North Begins.” Historically, the city served as a gateway to the north during an era when waterways were crucial for travel. Situated on a narrow strip of land where the Fox and Wisconsin rivers are closest, Portage was named for the portage route where Native Americans, European traders, and missionaries carried their canoes approximately 1.25 miles between these rivers. The Fox River flows north and east towards the St. Lawrence, while the Wisconsin River flows south and west towards the Mississippi, emphasizing Portage’s strategic importance as a crossroads of early American exploration and commerce. The slogan originates from a time when a trading post thrived in what is now Riverside Park along Highway 51. You probably have passed it a number of times if you have traveled on 51. If you are going north it would be on your left hand side. It looks like a big vegetable garden, has a pergola. It does have a large sign stating ‘Riverside park’ and I'm almost positive it also says something about it being historical. But when you are driving 75 miles an hour it can be hard to catch. So perhaps that is also another topic for another time. This outpost marked the final stop for travelers before continuing their journey northward. While exact historical distances are difficult to pinpoint, it's reasonable to assume that the next settlement was a considerable distance away in the early days of Wisconsin. Imagine the scene: weary travelers pausing at this trading post, stocking up on supplies, and preparing for the next leg of their journey through a rugged and often untamed wilderness. This stretch between settlements symbolizes more than just a physical distance—it represents a transition from settled lands to the vast, forested expanse of what we now know as the Northwoods. The slogan, "Where the North Begins," thus captures not only a geographic marker but also a historical narrative of exploration and adventure in the heart of Wisconsin's frontier. In the northernmost reaches of Wisconsin lies Crivitz, a town that proudly embraces the slogan "Gateway to the North." While Crivitz may not be the first town that comes to mind when thinking of "up north," it holds a unique claim to this title. Ecologically speaking, Crivitz lies beyond the tension zone and geographically, it sits at the center of the state within Marinette County, where over 80% of the land is covered in forest. This natural abundance underscores Crivitz's role as a gateway to some of Wisconsin's most picturesque destinations. "The Village of Crivitz ... is the 'Gateway' to beautiful destinations, such as the Peshtigo River, Peshtigo River State Forest, Lake Noquebay, and Governor Tommy Thompson State Park," notes the village website. From Crivitz, a line drawn westward roughly traces Highway 64 through Merrill to New Richmond, offering a scenic route through Wisconsin's diverse landscapes. But that line would eliminate New London about 90 miles to the south, which also claims to be the “Gateway to the North” on its tourism website. New London ,Located in Outagamie and Waupaca counties, which are positioned below the geographic center of Wisconsin, the city boasts forestland comprising 17% and 44%, respectively. This composition might seem unlikely for claiming the title of "gateway to the North." However, the city resides in the tension zone and is in proximity to the Forest Transition Landscape. In this regard, it could be perceived as a starting point or gateway to the more densely forested regions further north. Despite this proximity, I remain unconvinced of its candidacy. Further north, five counties have staked their claim as the heart of Wisconsin's Northwoods, and are seemingly the ones that are top of mind when the term arises: Forest, Langlade, Lincoln, Oneida, and Vilas. Among them, Vilas and Forest counties border Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, solidifying their northern credentials beyond doubt. The remaining three counties—Langlade, Lincoln, and Oneida—are equally renowned for their dense forests, abundant lakes, and the quintessential up north experience offered by numerous cabins and family-run resorts. These counties embody the very essence of what it means to be "up north" in Wisconsin. Aaron Shapiro explored this history in an article featured in the Summer 2006 edition of The Wisconsin Magazine of History. In his piece, Shapiro defines the tourist region of the Northwoods, spanning from the St. Croix River in the west to Highway 45 in the east, bordered by Lake Superior to the north and Highway 8 to the south. He vividly recounts the emergence of the area's earliest resorts and the influx of tourists, including a notable Chicagoan in 1920. This individual was part of a growing wave of residents from Chicago, Milwaukee, and the Twin Cities who sought a rustic vacation experience amidst Wisconsin's North Woods during the interwar years, seeking solace from urban industrialism. Technology has taken over another way folks used to gauge if they were up north, that was very short lived, was when their cell phones lost reception. Obviously cell phones weren't really widely used until the 2000s. But, people would notice their phones going silent as they ventured deeper into the Northwoods or hit those remote stretches. I remember as a teeneager having a very specific spot I would place my phone in the windowsill in my room, as well as various other around the house, that gave me just enough bars to send and receive texts, after lots of failed sends and running around the house with my arms up in every window. Can you relate? But with today's advancements in technology and the spread of cell towers, even the most remote spots are getting coverage, making it harder to rely on that old trick to define "up north." A century later, many still yearn for that rustic escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life when they head "up north." The exact location on a map may vary, and for some Wisconsinites, the concept of "up north" remains a personal and subjective feeling. As Aaron Zitzelsberger wrote in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, "Wausau is the start of 'north,' but I don't really feel like I'm north until I start seeing signs telling me how far away Canada is." This sentiment reflects the diverse perceptions of what constitutes "up north." It could be anywhere north of the geographic center of the state, around Auburndale near Highway 10. It might also be marked by crossing over Highway 8 or 29, those manmade demarcations that signify leaving the more developed areas behind. For others, "up north" begins north of the tension zone or simply where the dense forests and natural landscapes prevail beyond that line. It's often associated with the heart of the Northwoods, encompassing counties like Forest, Langlade, Lincoln, Oneida, and Vilas, which are synonymous with the term. The exact definition of where "up north" begins may always be up for debate, but most agree that you'll know it when you arrive. You'll spot the familiar white signs with family names pointing towards cabins, catch the scent of lake water and pine trees, perhaps hear the crackle of a campfire at night, and immerse yourself in the soothing sounds of nature all around. That's when you truly feel you're "up north" in Wisconsin. There’s a poem attributed to Suzanne Kindler floating around the Internet that sums it up perfectly: "It’s the place people go to escape, a place made of cabins, pine trees and lakes. But no matter how far you drive, there’s no sign to say “You’ve arrived.” So just follow your heart til you find, your special place that brings peace of mind. As you breathe in the air and unwind, your cares are all left behind. It’s no mystery where the northwoods start. When you’re “up north,” you’ll know in your heart. For the sake of our blog and podcast, we’re defining "Up North" as everything north of Highway 29. This was the most popular response from our Instagram poll a few weeks ago, and it aligns closely with the results from the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel poll, where Highway 10 was a top choice. While those results lean towards Highway 10, Highway 29 is close enough for us. Personally, if you ask me, I'd say it's really Highway 8. As I mentioned earlier, it's that clear moment on Highway 51 when the landscape shifts dramatically. The highway narrows, the forest becomes denser, and the scenery changes from open farmlands to vast forests and sparkling lakes. That’s when you truly feel like you’ve arrived "Up North." _______________________ What do you think? Let us know! Head to our instagram on the poll we posted, cast your vote and tell us your thoughts. Or you can leave a comment below. While you're there don’t forget to follow us. You can also follow us on Spotify, Apple Music and wherever you stream your podcasts. SOURCES: Where does 'up north' Wisconsin begin? We might never answer the question, but here are 5 possible ways to define it Chelsey Lewis Milwaukee Journal Sentinel https://www.jsonline.com/story/travel/wisconsin/2022/07/08/where-does-up-north-wisconsin-start-depends-how-you-define/7816652001/ State cartographers office: Wisconsin facts and trivia https://www.sco.wisc.edu/wisconsin/geography/ Where does 'up north' begin? Wisconsinites can't agree James B. Nelson Milwaukee Journal Sentinel https://www.jsonline.com/story/news/local/wisconsin/2017/06/29/where-does-up-north-begin-wisconsinites-cant-agree/438572001/ Stakeholders' Perceptions of Parcelization in Wisconsin's Northwoods Mark Rickenbach University of Wisconsin–Madison Paul H. Gobster USDA Forest Service https://www.researchgate.net/publication/233676590_Stakeholders%27_Perceptions_of_Parcelization_in_Wisconsin%27s_Northwoods (2014 Climate article) Forest ecosystem vulnerability assessment and synthesis for northern Wisconsin and western Upper Michigan: a report from the Northwoods Climate Change Response Framework project https://research.fs.usda.gov/treesearch/46393 Flowing through history: Why the Portage Canal was pivotal for Wisconsin, and why it still is. Keith Uhlig Wausau Daily Herald https://www.jsonline.com/story/news/history/2021/09/28/portage-canal-connects-wisconsin-rivers-history-and-culture/8217883002/ Village of Crivitz town site https://www.villageofcrivitz.com/
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